Rock Climbing Helmets: How to Choose the Best Helmet for You

A rock climbing helmet is an essential part of your safety climbing equipment as well as your harness or your rope. It doesn’t matter that all the photos you see in the climbing magazines never show someone wearing one. If you have at least some regard for the well-being of your brain, then you must always wear a helmet while climbing. Not only falling debris -whether they are loose rocks or climbing gear- are constant dangers during your climb, but also it could be an ugly possibility that you fall while leading the route. Wearing a helmet will reduce the danger from them both. Now, that we have discussed the importance of wearing a helmet for the sake of your head. I will discuss about how to choose the right one for you.

First, be sure the helmet you choose is made for rock climbing. They are designed different from helmets designed for other sports. Mainly, a rock climbing helmet is designed to protect you from falling debris, and second to protect your head for blows when falling. In a cycling helmet for example the concern is the exact opposite. They are designed to protect you from a fall and the possibility that a rock will impact on them was never consider. So, a cycling helmet is almost useless in the mountain. Besides, a helmet designed for Rock climbing has to conform to one of the following standards: UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) CE (European Committee for Standardization) or ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials). So, look for certification of compliance with one of these standards at the hour of choosing one.

So, what kinds of helmets are out there? Rock climbing helmets comes in two types depending on how they absorb the energy of an impact:

• Foam interior helmet: the shell in this case is supported by a crown of polystyrene or polypropylene closed-cell foam. In case of an impact the foam is crushed permanently to absorb the blow. The shell in this type of helmets can vary from a thin plastic shitting (example Petzl Meteor III) to a semi-rigid plastic shell (example Petzl Elios.) These kinds of helmets are more popular. They are lightweight but less durable.
• Harness suspension helmet: A strong shell, commonly of polycarbonate, is supported by an interior webbing suspension system. In the face of an impact the shell deforms absorbing the energy of the blow. These are more durable but heavier helmets.

Now that we know what kinds of helmets are on the market, surges the question of which criterions to apply for choosing one.

Fit: the helmet must fit properly in your head. Most helmets nowadays are adjustable, so fit is not really and issue. Before you buckle the chin strap a well-adjusted helmet must fit snugly enough that it doesn’t feel loose.

Ventilation: you have to know in what weather and climbing conditions you will be usually climbing. If you climb in warm weather, then more vent holes can be handy. But more vent slots mean less coverage against falling debris in an alpine or ice environment. At usual there is a trade off, so choose depending in your own needs.

Weight: other thing equal, choose the more lightweight helmet. Of course, it depends again in what type of climbing you do. Do you plan to do lots of long mountaineering climbs? Choose a less durable foam lightweight model. Do you do a lot of sport climbing in a spot where you park your car at the foot of the walls? A more durable model (heavy) could be OK then.

These are the basic things to consider when choosing a rock climbing helmet. So, now that you know what to look for. Buy a helmet and wear it! Your gray matter will be grateful to you. Happy climbing.